I don't understand this - how come you had to buy patterns if you've subscribed to the magazine? Unless you want patterns in old issues, from before you subscribed? If the latter were possible, then people would wait until there are lots of old patterns, stocked up in the archives, then subscribe for a short time to get access to the old patterns, cancel their subscription when they've downloaded them all, and wonder why the magazine goes under because people are abusing it!

You subscribe to get the patterns in the new issues, not the old, archived ones - it wouldn't be fair on people who have been subscribing for years otherwise. Perhaps at some point there could be individual rates to buy single patterns, or a higher subscription rate for those who want to access an archive, but to expect Crochet Today (and other magazines), who have very fair subscription rates to give you all their older patterns isn't a very sustainable business model! It would be like buying the last couple of books in a series and expecting to get all the earlier ones free!

Here's hoping the tech editor has addressed them:

1. How do I work sc along the ch-9, then dc in the marked sc? To work into the chains of the ch-9 you will need to pivot or rotate (do not "turn") your work so that you can work into the first ch of the ch-9 in a similar manner as "working in the round" (the first ch of the ch-9 is the ch currently furthest form the hook), this causes the ch-9 to form a ring or loop (the buttonloop). After workiing an sc in each of the ch's of ch-9 (in the round) you will be back to the sc with the marker in it (you've worked completely around in a circle, kind of a loop-d-loop). Dc into the marked st and continue across the row in the (sc, dc) stitch pattern.

2. Do I dc in marked sc or next to it as if I had made an (sc, dc) in pattern? This will be a matter of personal taste. You certainly could dc into the same st as the marked sc, if this will make your work look more even (or appealing to you).

3. Twisting: Yes, twisting is a problem. You may find that laying the piece flat on a table as you work the last row will help. When you need to rotate the work to work around the ch-9, simply rotate it on the table (do not pick it up and try to rotate, as this may cause the twisting). Again, as mentioned in #2, if working the next dc into the same st as the marked sc helps overcome some of the twisting, you should definitely feel free to do so.

4. Closing up holes: Closing up the holes as suggested in the "tip" on our web-site is an option. Some people work rather tightly so they get no (or very small holes), others like the holes (a design element). If you do wish to close up the holes, you have two options:
       a. Close them up as you work, according to the "tip". Exactly where you insert you hook in the "side" of the previous row doesn't really matter. When you move from working the stitch pattern across the current row, to continuing the pattern in unworked sts from a previous row, you go down a "step", you can insert your hook anywhere that seems comfortable to you in the side edge of the "step" (typically somewhere near the middle of the side of the step yields the best results).
       b. Close them up after the capelet is complete. You can sew the holes closed on the wrong side of the piece once the capelet is completely crocheted. To reduce the number of ends to weave in when sewing holes closed, use a long strand, weave in the beginning end securely, work a few sts to close a hole, then weave the strand to the next hole, and so on.

5. As the hook goes through the side then through the stitch do I pul up a loop and go through both stitches? Yes, insert your hook into the side edge, then insert it into the next st, yarn over and draw the loop all the way back through (both the st and the side edge). Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook, and this completes the first sc of the first (sc, dc) worked along the unworked sts.

We sincerely hope that this helps you complete this lovely capelet.
CT!